Happy June! Last month was May, which is Melanoma Awareness Month. In dermatology, we talk a lot about proper sun protection, which of course aids in the prevention of dangerous skin cancers. Sunscreen is one of our most important shields against the sun’s harmful rays. However, there are tons of products on the market, and it can be quite overwhelming. Today, as we dive into the hottest – and sunniest – months of the year, I wanted to chat about specific elements to look for in your sunscreen of choice and provide some recommendations to get you started.
First of all, let’s touch on the actual rays of sunlight we aim to protect our skin from. The most harmful components of sunlight are ultraviolet radiation rays “A” (UVA) and “B” (UVB). UVB causes direct DNA damage to our skin cells. UVA causes indirect damage and free radical formation. Although both UVA and UVB are implicated in the development of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers, UVA also has a large role in accelerating aging of the skin. Recent research has suggested that wavelengths of light outside of the UVA/UVB range, including visible light, can also cause damage to our skin cells.
So, how do we protect ourselves? Let’s look at the key ingredients that your ideal sunscreen should have. There are two main classes of sunscreen commercially available: chemical and mineral.
Chemical sunscreens work like a sponge, absorbing UV radiation as it meets the skin. Most traditional chemical sunscreens primarily provide protection against UVB, with less activity against UVA. Notably, in the United States, only the ingredient avobenzone provides true chemical coverage of UVA.
Mineral sunscreens work like a sponge as well, absorbing the sun’s rays, but also like a physical barrier, reflecting and scattering UV rays before they reach the skin. In contrast to chemical sunscreens, mineral sunscreens provide protection against both UVB and UVA due to the key ingredient zinc oxide. Based on the enhanced spectrum of protection offered by mineral sunscreens, we typically recommend mineral sunscreen with a zinc oxide concentration of at least 7% for all patients.
Mineral sunscreens are available in both sheer and tinted formulations. Tinted mineral sunscreens expand the already enhanced spectrum of protection offered by mineral sunscreens: they contain iron oxides and/or pigmented titanium dioxide, which provide additional protection against visible light, which is outside of the UVA/UVB spectrum. As we mentioned before, emerging evidence has shown that visible light contributes to cellular damage; it is also a major cause of hyperpigmentation. Because of this, patients who deal with melasma and other dark spots especially benefit from wearing tinted mineral sunscreens daily. It can mask existing hyperpigmentation while also preventing further worsening of the condition.
That was a lot of information! If you made it this far with me, I hope you feel a bit more informed as we now provide several of our favorite sunscreen recommendations:
FOR THE FACE:
Hamilton Dermascience Emollient or Mattifying Intensive: this mineral sunscreen has 14% zinc oxide as well as iron oxides. It has a tint that blends with your natural skin tone and helps to mask redness and imperfections. It has other skin-supporting ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid. The Mattifying Intensive differs from the Emollient Intensive sunscreen in that it does not contain squalene, so it has a matte finish instead of a hydrated, shiny finish. Depends on your preference!
HDS Sheer Intensive: this mineral sunscreen has 14% zinc oxide. It does not have a tint, so is nearly invisible on most skin types. It is 100% fragrance and preservative free, and has other skin-supporting ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid.
Isdin Eryfotona Actinica: this mineral sunscreen has 11% zinc oxide. It does not have a tint, and has a lightweight feel. It also includes Vitamin E and photolyase enzymes to enhance skin health.
EltaMD UV Clear: this mineral/chemical combination sunscreen has 9% zinc oxide. It does not have a tint, and is ideal for acne or rosacea-prone skin as it also contains calming ingredients such as niacinamide.
Both Isdin Eryfotona and EltaMD UV Clear have tinted sister products that are also commercially available if you prefer a tint. EltaMD also released a new green-tinted UV Skin Recovery Sunscreen that is ideal for patients who struggle with the redness of rosacea or are recovering post procedure. It is a mineral sunscreen with 12.9% zinc oxide as well as skin-soothing ingredients such as amino acids, ceramides, and centella. Its green tint blends with redness to create an even skin tone.
If you are looking for quick re-application during the day, or easy protection of the hairline or crown of the scalp, mineral sunscreens also come in powder formulations. Hamilton DermaScience’s Mineral Powder Brush SPF 30 has a subtle tint and helps mattify and control oil production for a cosmetically pleasing result.
FOR THE BODY:
Hamilton DermaScience Ultra Zinc is a mineral sunscreen lotion that has 20% zinc oxide and a sheer finish. It is chemical-free, preservative-free, and fragrance-free, making it ideal for sensitive skin.
EltaMD UV AOX Spray is a mineral sunscreen spray that has 14% zinc oxide and rubs into a transparent finish. Perfect for those who prefer a spray over a lotion sunscreen.
Other mineral sunscreen spray-on options include Blue Lizard, which is an Australian sunscreen with 24% zinc oxide and a sheer finish, and Coppertone Pure & Simple, which has 24% zinc oxide and a sheer finish.
Finally, another mineral sunscreen lotion option that we love is Banana Boat’s Mineral Sunscreen, which feels light on the skin and has 19% zinc oxide.
Have fun and protect your skin this summer! As always, if you have any questions about which products are ideal for your skin, we are here to advise you. Stay tuned to our social media channels to see some videos from our wonderful esthetician, Allene, showcasing some of our staff’s favorite products.
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